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French defense for beginners

Note: This article is aimed to help players with rating below 1300 to understand first moves and basic ideas behind the French defense (1. e4 e6).

Let us think logical for a while. At first sight, it's obvious that 1...e6 allows white to take control of the center after his next move (2. d4). Should we remind ourselves how important is to fight for the center squares in the early phase of the game, and also how important is to have space advantage which is connected to position of your central pawns?

Before we think how to evaluate the 1...e6 move, we will underline two basic guidelines that serve in every opening:  

  •     Fight for the center with your central pawns. 
  •     Control the center because it gives you space advantage.

In my training practise I've been asked why is space so important, and what good is given to you if you have space advantage. So I feel that there is a real need to talk about space, or just explanation of some basic positive effects; all in the range of logical thinking.

Assume that white controls most of the board, and black has only eight and seventh rank for his pieces. That fact is telling us that black can't place his pieces wherever he would like, except on those two ranks. His range of choices is reduced. Meanwhile, white has choices of remaining part of the board. Knowing it, what will be your answer if someone ask who would have better options to place his own pieces on better squares? Of course, white.

Here we can see how one kind of advantage, as controlling the center, can implicate the other two - space advantage and more active (better) pieces. Thus we underline one more guideline: 

  • With space advantage you can improve the activity of your pieces.

Now let's get back to the board and examine black's first move in the French defense.

Black has opened diagonals for his queen and a bishop, same what white have done with his first move. The only difference is that black have decided not to fight for central squares on the forth rank (f4 and d4).

It seams that he rejects to follow guidelines we just talked about, and doesn't care for the center and space, and thus - on the end - for the activity of his pieces. On the other hand, there is just one little threat, suddenly connected with center, space and activity of his pieces. For example, if white would just wait in the second move, by playing, let's say, 2. h3, then reaction of black would be 2...d5, and if white captures on d5 - 3. e:d5 - black will capture, of course, with his e6-pawn - 3...e:d5. Just take a look and think what you see! White has nothing in the center, and not only that black's pieces have more space, but also there is only black's pawn on the center at the moment. Of course, it's not needed for white to capture on d5, but his e4 pawn is questioned, and black already post one of his pawns into the center (d5). All that is telling us that 1...e6 is, without any doubt, indirectly connected with idea of fighting for the center, space and activity of pieces.

Now, what should white do (instead of just losing time, as we saw with 2. h3)? Following those guidelines and pure logic, the best continuation will be 2. d4. The idea is to build positional advantage with two central pawns.

What was the purpose of 1...e6? Those who would say that the move is played only because black wanted to give some space for his f8-bishop and the queen, they are completely wrong. As we have already seen, true idea of move 1...e6 was to make some kind of action in the center.

Someone could say that strike in the center can be delayed, that black should prepare other pieces before the strike, but that is - again - wrong. And there is a simple explanation, connected to our third underlined guideline: black cannot manoeuvre and take better positions for his pieces better then white can do with so much space that he possess. So, any delay of strike in the center will be in favor of white, because white will prepare his pieces better, waiting for the encounter in the center. (If you are still not assured, try to play this position with black, without 2...d5, just to see what will happen, and how difficult will be later to do anything in your favor concerning center and space.) 2...d5

Black finally strikes in the center, with putting a question on white's e4-pawn. This kind of moves can be useful because your opponent should think how to organize further development along with how to defend the attacked pawn. It is connected with two issues: time and limiting opponent's choices in developing phase.

Concerning time, I'll give you an example how black will get in position to first develop his minor piece. If white continue with 3. e5 then after normal moves (which will be explained in this article) 3...c5 and 4. c3, black can play 4...Nc6, developing his queen-side knight, while all white's pieces are still on the first rank.

More simple example would be 1. e4 e5 2. Nf3, and black is tied to choices that defend e5-pawn (directly or indirectly).

In both examples we can see that such moves doesn't make any serious difficulties to the other side, because there are many useful moves that can be both - defending and developing. More illustrative example of gaining time in opening phase goes this way: 1. e4 d5 2. e:d5 Q:d5 3. Nc3 - black's queen is under attack, and he will have to lose a tempo with a move which cannot be developing.

However, we will underline two new guidelines that can be useful in many cases, concerning the opening:

  • Limit your opponent's choices to develop. 
  • Try to earn a tempo to develop your pieces faster.

Now, back to the "French".

White has few choices:

  •     3. e:d5
  •     3. e5
  •     3. Nc3
  •     3. Nd2

(I will analyze only first two options, because moves like 3. Nc3 and 3. Nd2 are more complex, and not only that they deserve separate lectures, but understanding of those variations is not so crucial for understanding basic "French" positions and strategies.)

Let's talk first on 3. e:d5 (Exchange Variation of the French defense: choice of those who want to play for a draw).

Considering previous guidelines, how black should recapture on d5? With e-pawn, of course! Try to evaluate and answer on question: Why?

If queen takes on d5, white can simply earn a tempo with 4. Nc3. This is the first reason.

Second reason: by moving e6-pawn to square d5, bishop on c8 gets needed space and activity.

Third reason: by moving e6-pawn to square d5, black controls more central squares and gets more space then with pawn on e6.

So the best and most logical continuation for black will be: 3...e:d5

Symmetrical position with white on the move. But here black has finished fight for the center and space - he has equalized on both issues, with no difficulties on developing all his pieces at the optimal places. The position should be mark as equal.

Now let's see 3. e5. (Advance Variation of the French defense)

Even if 3. e5 is not the most popular choice, I will post a radical and daring state that this is the main position from which everyone should start to examine opening as French defense. Occurred position is not important because of move (3. e5), but because of pawn structure. It is typical pawn position in the center for the French. Our main object will be to evaluate this structure, to find accurate plans for both sides - plans that should be valid in many other variations.

By focusing on the central pawn structure, how should we observe position on the board?

Let's start from the evaluation of space. There we can see that white controls more of the space, thanks to the e5-pawn. Also, there is a very passive black c8-bishop, attacking his own pawn-chain in the center. White has no such bad pieces, and no obvious weakness. Therefore, white has slight advantage. However, black is on the move, and he will fight against his own weaknesses. The question is - how?

The main tasks should be developing minor pieces and fight for more space, primarily with reference to the structure in the center. Obviously, black has to do something in the center, otherwise his pieces will be placed bad.

As we can see, there are two possibilities to strike in the center. The question will be which white pawn black should undermine: e5 or d4?

And here we have simple thinking and solution: If we try to undermine e5-pawn by playing 3...f6, our threat is not very well considered. The reason is clear: after any of white's developing move, and black's capturing on e5, white will simply recapture with his d4-pawn. Thus white keeps important e5-pawn, and black still has difficulties in developing his g8-knight and c8-bishop. The other possibility for white will be to support his e5-pawn with his own f-pawn, playing the move pawn to f4 (not in this position), with an idea to recapture with his f-pawn. In that case white will keep both central pawns, which is strategically even better.

So, undermining the top of the pawn-chain is not very effective. The other option is to attack the base. In this case it is d4-pawn, and it will be done with 3...c5.

And here we will underline one more guideline:

  • To break up a pawn chain, (first) attack the base.

Before we start to think for white how to react, we should explain why black shouldn't play other kind of moves. As we already said, if black do not deal with white's pawns in the center, he will have problem in development very soon. For example, if black played 3...Nc6, the line will go this way: 4. Nf3 Bd7 5. Be2 (there are better choices for white here, but this is more illustrative then, for example, 5. c3 with an idea to place light-square bishop on more active d3-square) and suddenly black's pieces are buried with it's own pawns and pieces. They want more air, and 3...c5 is dealing with it.

When I was a beginner, I liked moves like 3...f5, thinking that I will grab space if he doesn't capture (4. e:f6). This is an illusion, and strategical (huge) mistake. Move like 3...f5 is not solving problem of space and white's domination in center. It only makes position harder for black, because there is no potential undermining of white's e5-pawn, which is already annoying. Also, with pawn on f5 black will have more difficult job to deal with his bad c8-bishop. Pay the attention: all black central pawns are on the white squares, and his light-square bishop is still on the board, behind his pawns. And that is strategical suicide. For sure, white will not capture by en-passant, because he doesn't want to help black with developing his g8-knight, nor to give him precious space for other pieces.

  • Do not leave your bishop to target your own pawns from behind.

OK, now we have logically justified 3...c5. What white should do?

If white wants to secure his central pawn-chain, he will support his base (d4-pawn) with 4. c3.

Now we will stop posting concrete moves. Instead, we will make another evaluation and try to find how both sides should consider their plans.

It's time to develop pieces, for both sides. But before make any move, both sides should make their strategy or plan of playing. White has clearer state and plan. His strategy is defined by the e5-pawn, which blocks not only c8-bishop, but also g8-knight, because it can't be placed on the natural f6-square. The pawn on the top of the chain is the main element in white position, and it tells white to play on the king side. The reason is simple: black has less space on that side, and his pieces cannot be placed well there.

Thus we have two more guidelines:

  • During an attempt to make a plan, examine the pawn structure. 
  • Play on the side where you have more space.

On the other hand, white should think how black can try to release his pieces and get more space for himself, in order to prevent his attempts or to make other weaknesses in the opponent's position.

Next question will be how to place pieces according to the plan of playing on the king side. First, g1-knight will be developed on f3. It's his natural place, from which he can defend base of pawn-chain (d4), and also jump into the attack on g5, if it is needed. F1-bishop's best place is square d3, since diagonal b1-h7 targets directly position of black's king, if he decide to castle. Of course, white should castle on the king side. The other two minor pieces can wait to see how black will play, especially c1-bishop, which can stay there for some time, because it is already targeting black's king side. Best place for the other knight would be e2, with from he can jump to attacking outpost f4-square; also, knight from e2 is strengthening d4 pawn-base. However, in most cases it is very difficult to obtain that good position with the b1-knight.

Now let's think how black should play.

His pawn structure suggests him to play on the queen side, because his pieces have more freedom (space) on that side. Beside it, black should put some pressure on the base of white's pawn-chain (d4). It shouldn't be played so only with idea to capture it, because white can easily defend, if he needs to. The true idea is more strategical then it is thought at first sight. It's about forcing white pieces to be placed more defensible than white would like, so those pieces cannot attack on black's king side. Also, when it comes to that situation, black will strike with another pawn in the center - f6. Thus black will change the object of his pressure to the other white central pawn (e5), while white is not well prepared, because of defending the base (d4).

And, of course, one more idea shouldn't be forgotten because it is more logical then any other. It deals with (in "French" well-known) weakness called "bad c8-bishop". Black should try to trade that bishop for any of white's minor pieces.

  • Bishop that targets his own pawns, from behind, is bad, and should be traded.

As it can be seen, black plan is more complicated, and it needs more positional understanding to play such positions. This is the main reason why I do not suggest to any beginner player to choose the French defense as first opening choice against 1. e4.

Comments


  • 5 months ago

    FM mizant

    Rickr,

    I wouldn't recommend the exchange variation of the French to anyone, especially I wouldn't tell beginner player to play that way. Why? Because beginner should try to play the most logical moves, and apply opening principles. One of those principles is to obstruct your opponent's development, and the other says that if you can, you should grab more space then your opponent. With the move 3. exd5, White is violating those two important guidelines/principles, as (1) the Black Bishop (c8) is getting great diagonal for his activity and development, while (2) White is exchanging his forth-rank (e4) Pawn for the sixth rank (e6) Pawn of Black, giving up of the slight spatial advantage too.

    Instead, White should follow these rules:

    (1) Develop your pieces  - it means to involve some piece in the game, and of course to defend e4-Pawn; and as we know that development should be toward the center - then let's say and play 3. Nc3!

    (2) Get more space (and keep the center in your control) & obstruct opponent's development - let's play 3. e5!

    Those are the most logical moves that beginner player should learn to play without knowing theory of (this or any other) opening. Any of those two moves is good because there is a great and clear reason behind. That is the way for beginner player to think and play (again, not only French, but any other opening).

  • 5 months ago

    rickcr

    Newbish question I know.. but when you mention "This is the main reason why I do not suggest to any beginner player to choose the French defense as first opening choice against 1. e4" - My question becomes what if you're white and your opponent plays e6 (the French) - aren't you sort of 'forced into the French'  - but obviously you're on the white side.

     

    So as a beginner what should white attempt to do in the French after 1..e4 e6, 2.d4 d5 ? I'd think for the beginner simplifying with the exchange variation is the easiest to grasp (opens up game), even though not the theorhetical best move?

  • 8 months ago

    nyLsel

    Nice defence for beginners, I hope I can apply it with my games.. thanks!

  • 16 months ago

    NM ChessNetwork

    Very nicely written and thoroughly explained. :)

  • 16 months ago

    BadRobot59

    I thoroughly enjoy playing center-counter (1. e4  d5) defense because of the wide open games it creates, but often opponents push 2. e5 which leads to the french defense which I don't care for as it is a 'closed' positional game and white gets definate advantages as you mentioned. Good reminders of how to break it back open for black, especially dumping the 'bad' bishop...

  • 16 months ago

    tranminhkhoi2

    I love french defense for a while but i think it often made some positional troubles in the end of the game. Not recomended for blitz.

  • 16 months ago

    FM mizant

    Interesting suggestion, arzor (on advice to beginners to play the exchange variation). On the other hand, I wanted to show how that choice can not be perfect from the point of positional view. It's not clear even because the exchange variation can not lead to any kind of interesting positions for beginners also (OK, maybe with 4. c4, but then you will have to explain something on isolated pawn...).

  • 16 months ago

    arzor

    "rating below 1300" "I do not suggest to any beginner player"

    Good advice against the French for the target audience, but why then spend time explaining the various white options? Beginners will only need one line as white against the French in case their opponent plays 1...e6.

    Since exploiting positional advantages requires more skill than a typical beginner might have, going for symmetry seems like an obvious choice, unless playing against someone even weaker, right?

  • 16 months ago

    the_aleph

    Sorry - perhaps it's because it's early in the morning and I haven't slept too well, but does anybody edit these articles before they are published? I am not going to read an article that says things like 'same what white have done with his first move'. I'm just not.

  • 16 months ago

    FM mizant

    brisk975,

    You asked about 4. Qe2+

    I don't like that move, and there are few strong reasons. First one is that you cannot do anything with this check, and you made a move with your queen in the early phase, while all your other pieces are still on the first rank. So, as black, I will simply develop one of my pieces, for example: 4...Be7, then I will try make fast castle, and put my rook on e8, with some possibilities of discovered attack on your bad positioned queen.

    So, that move is simply against many principles, and I wouldn't recommend it.

    alexfb,

    Yes, it's very hard to reach those places for your knights (e2 and f3), as I said in the article. In that particular variation (Advance variation), it is in most cases impossible. But there are some variation in French defence in which this is possible. For example, in lines that starts with 3. Nd2. That knight will go to f3, and the one from g1 is going to be placed on e2. Of course, black has good response against this, and it is maybe the material for some other article on French def.

  • 16 months ago

    restinpeace

    I like Black's reply of 1.e6, I'm a french player too, sometimes, and I find it easy to use. Even a newbie can use this and I'm sure he/she will fell in love with this opening like how I fell in love with it. French defense is a strong reply for Black (for me), next to 1.c6 (Caro-Kann).

  • 16 months ago

    alexfb

    "Next question will be how to place pieces according to the plan of playing on the king side. First, g1-knight will be developed on f3. It's his natural place, from which he can defend base of pawn-chain (d4), and also jump into the attack on g5, if it is needed. F1-bishop's best place is square d3, since diagonal b1-h7 targets directly position of black's king, if he decide to castle. Of course, white should castle on the king side. The other two minor pieces can wait to see how black will play, especially c1-bishop, which can stay there for some time, because it is already targeting black's king side. Best place for the other knight would be e2, with from he can jump to attacking outpost f4-square; also, knight from e2 is strengthening d4 pawn-base. However, in most cases it is very difficult to obtain that good position with the b1-knight."

    I don't understand one thing: the g1 knight moves to f3 "it's natural place" and the other bishop (b1) goes to e2? that means it must travel d2 - f3 (where the other knight is) - g1 - e2????

    Great article, looking forward for the next ones. 


  • 16 months ago

    chesteroz

    Very instructive, thanks. I read your  previous article on French.

    Seeing you feel open games are best for beginners, may I ask what openings you feel are best?

  • 16 months ago

    Meemo

    I agree, this is a superb introduction to the French Defence, one of the best I have ever read. The relevance of pawn structures to development & planning seems frequently to be a neglected subject that is considered too advanced for novice players, but you demonstrate that the concepts are quite easy to understand when explained clearly. Great job!

  • 17 months ago

    george1977

    Really a superb article, no matters you are a beginner or a master!! Good concepts well explained. Congratulations!! :)

  • 17 months ago

    flowerew

    I have struggled always in chess due to my inability to memorize these openings, I wished there were more articles like this, because even though now I am a stronger player this opening in particular never made sense to me, until today.

  • 17 months ago

    CSR

    Excellent article and thanks! Can you please write an article on French for Intermediate players now? Smile

    I agree with all your points except the one about starting beginners with e4. I know a lot of people do not recommend d4 for kids. But I taught my son d4 opening, and now two years later, he understands positional concepts a lot better than many adults he plays. e4 is supposed to give opportunities to learn tactics. But that is something he could do by doing exercises and making mistakes. But getting him to start thinking about the game as a whole and how the pieces and squares interact with each other, I think, is more important that knowing how to win a won position through tactics. True, he has lost some tournament games after having secured a won position, but in the long term, I think he will eventually get smart on all the tactical aspects.

  • 17 months ago

    brisk975

    I have a question: after the exchange variation of the French Defense I always play 4.Qe2+- is this a good move? 

  • 17 months ago

    jayzetar

    Thanks alot for this article. Just what I needed!

  • 17 months ago

    FM mizant

    dgmisal,

    I have read Nimcovich's "The Practice of my System" ("My System" is the extended version) long time ago, while I was at beginning of my chess career, and I thought that book is fantastic. But, again, few months ago I browsed it without any deeper thoughts. My opinion was completely different. Actually, I looked to see if there is maybe something that I could share with my students, anything that could be considered as illustrative for any beginner... Of course, there are many useful things, but this time I was dissapointed how it was done. Here I've tried to give much better illustrations then Nimcovich.

    This is not taken (neither basically nor on any other way) from any concrete book, this is just my view on how should beginners work on any opening instead to (basically) memorize lines without any explanation and logics. I've tried to think for both sides and levels in the same time - master and beginner. It is needed when you want to write article for this purpose.

    faysal_faris,

    "I hate openings!! The reason is that I can't memorize any line.. This article ... combines logical thinking with openings" ... That was my idea with this article. I wanted to advice beginners not to memorize lines, because it's all useless if you don't understand why those moves are good and should be played. Nothing in chess should be memorized just as empty, unexplained move.

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